Description
A complete test kit for testing tap and aquarium water. Tests six different potentially dangerous water conditions. Includes Freshwater pH, High Range pH, Ammonia, Nitrite, and Nitrate. Kit features computer-analyzed laminated color cards, instruction booklet, 4 test tubes, a holding tray and test tube rack.
Freshwater pH Test Instructions:
Why Test pH?
pH is the measure of acidity of water. A pH reading of 7.0 is neutral. A pH higher than 7.0 is alkaline, and a pH lower than 7.0 is acidic. Maintaining the aquarium at the proper pH ensures optimal water quality.
Testing Tips:
This test kit measures pH from 6.0 to 7.6. Certain freshwater fish thrive at a pH above 7.5. Live-bearers, goldfish and African cichlids prefer a pH of 7.5. When keeping fish in this pH range, use Aquarium Pharmaceuticals High Range pH Test Kit.
Directions for Testing pH:
A pH of 7.0 is ideal when keeping a community aquarium containing a variety of tropical fish. Goldfish should be kept in their own aquarium and prefer a pH of 7.5. Many Amazonian fish, like angelfish and neon tetras, prefer a pH of 6.5 to 6.8. Mollies and swordtails thrive at pH 7.2 to 7.5. To raise or lower the pH of a freshwater aquarium, use Aquarium Pharmaceuticals pH UP or pH Down, following the directions on the container. Aquarium Pharmaceuticals Proper pH 6.5, 7.0, and 7.5 powders automatically adjust pH to the preset level.
Frequency of Testing:
The pH should be tested weekly, since natural materials in the aquarium (such as fish waste and decaying food) can cause pH changes. The minimum pH reading for this kit is 6.0 and the maximum is 7.6. Under extreme water conditions, readings below the minimum will read 6.0 and above the maximum will read 7.6. pH adjustments outside the range of this kit will not show any changes until the pH of the aquarium water is within the range of this kit.
Danger:
Corrosive C irritant Xi
pH Up:
Why Test pH?
pH is the measure of acidity of water. A pH reading of 7.0 is neutral. A pH higher than 7.0 is alkaline, and a pH lower than 7.0 is acidic. Certain freshwater fish thrive at a pH above 7.0. Live-bearers and goldfish require a pH of 7.5. African cichlids, marine fish and invertebrates require a pH between 8.2 and 8.4. Maintaining the aquarium at the proper pH ensures optimal water quality.
Testing Tips:
This test kit measures pH from 7.2 to 8.8 in either fresh or saltwater aquariums. This kit contains two High Range pH Test Color Charts — one for freshwater aquariums, and one for saltwater aquariums — so be sure to use the correct chart for your type of aquarium when interpreting test results. The Freshwater pH Test Color Chart is the appropriate chart to use for testing freshwater aquariums to which aquarium salt and African cichlid salt have been added. Artificial salt water should have a pH of 8.2. If not, adjustment with Aquarium Pharmaceuticals PROPER pH™ 8.2 is recommended. pH adjustment may be required in newly made salt water.
Directions for Testing pH:
Saltwater
A pH level of 8.2 is ideal for saltwater fish, invertebrates and African cichlids. To automatically set the pH at 8.2. use Aquarium Pharmaceuticals PROPER pH 8.2 for saltwater aquariums. Proper pH 8.2 is a carbonate buffer which automatically adjusts and holds the pH at 8.2.
Freshwater
A pH of 7.5 is ideal for most live-bearing fish, such as mollies and swordtails. Goldfish will also thrive at a pH of 7.5. To raise or lower the pH of a freshwater aquarium, use Aquarium Pharmaceuticals pH UP™ or pH Down™, following the directions on the container. Proper pH 7.5 may be used to automatically adjust and hold pH at 7.5. Proper pH 8.2 may be used in African cichlid aquariums.
Frequency of Testing:
The pH should be tested weekly, since natural materials in the aquarium (such as fish waste and decaying food) can cause pH changes. The minimum pH reading for this kit is 7.2 and the maximum is 8.8. Under extreme water conditions, readings below the minimum will read 7.2 and above the maximum will read 8.8. pH adjustments outside the range of this kit will not show any changes until the pH of the aquarium water is within the range of this kit.
Caution:
Why test for Ammonia?
Tropical fish continually release ammonia (NH3) directly into the aquarium through their gills, urine, and solid waste. Uneaten food and other decaying organic matter also add ammonia to the water. A natural mechanism exists that controls ammonia in the aquarium – the biological filter. It is made up of nitrifying bacteria, which live in the gravel bed. However, as with any natural process, imbalances can occur. Testing for the presence of toxic ammonia is essential, so that once detected, steps can be taken to remove it. Otherwise, ammonia in the aquarium will damage gill membranes, and prevent fish from carrying on normal respiration. High levels of ammonia quickly lead to fish death. Even trace amounts stress fish, suppressing their immune system and thereby increasing the likelihood of disease outbreaks and subsequent fish loss.
Testing Tips:
This salicylate based ammonia test kit reads the total ammonia level in parts per million (ppm) which are equivalent to milligrams per Liter (mg/L) from 0 ppm to 8.0 ppm (mg/L), in either fresh or saltwater aquariums. Thus, there are two Ammonia Test Color Charts — one for freshwater aquariums, and one for saltwater aquariums — so be sure to use the correct chart for your type of aquarium when interpreting test results. The Freshwater Ammonia Test Color Chart is the appropriate chart to use for testing freshwater aquariums to which salt has been added.
Directions for Testing Ammonia Levels:
In a new freshwater or saltwater aquarium, the ammonia level may surge to 6 ppm (mg/L) or more, and then fall rapidly as the biological filter becomes established. The ammonia will be converted to nitrite (also toxic), then to nitrate. This process may take several weeks. Use Aquarium Pharmaceuticals STRESS ZYME® to speed up the development of the biological filter. In an established aquarium, the ammonia level should always remain at 0 ppm (mg/L). The presence of ammonia indicates possible over-feeding, too many fish, or inadequate biological filtration.
The ammonia level is not an indication of the nitrite level; nitrite is another toxic waste material which must be tested separately.
Monitoring Ammonia Levels:
Regular testing is necessary to make sure the ammonia level is safe. Aquarium water should be tested for ammonia every other day when the aquarium is first set up, and once a week after the biological filter has been established (in about 4 to 6 weeks).
Detoxifying Ammonia Using AMMO-LOCK® in Freshwater and Saltwater Aquariums:
To detoxify ammonia, use Aquarium Pharmaceuticals AMMO-LOCK to instantly lock up ammonia. AMMO-LOCK does not remove ammonia, it simply converts toxic ammonia to a non-toxic form. Ammonia test kits will still test positive for ammonia, even though it is non-toxic. The biological filter will then consume the non-toxic ammonia, converting it to nitrite and then to nitrate.
Filtering Method to Remove Ammonia in Freshwater Aquariums:
Filter aquarium water with Aquarium Pharmaceuticals AMMO-CARB® or AMMO-CHIPS® to remove ammonia and improve water quality.
Water Changes:
Changing 25% of the aquarium water will reduce the ammonia level. In an emergency, a daily water change may be required over several days. Be sure to use a water conditioner like Stress Coat® or AMMO-LOCK, when adding tap water back into the aquarium.
Danger:
Why Test For Nitrite?
Nitrite (NO2-) is produced in the aquarium by the biological filter. Beneficial bacteria in the biological filter convert toxic ammonia into nitrite (also toxic). The biological filter then converts nitrite into nitrate (NO3-). Testing for the presence of toxic nitrite is essential, so that once detected, steps can be taken to remove it. Otherwise, nitrite in the aquarium will prevent fish from carrying on normal respiration. High levels of nitrite quickly lead to fish death. Even trace amounts of nitrite stress fish, suppressing their immune system and, thereby, increase the likelihood of disease and subsequent fish loss.
Testing Tips:
This test kit reads total nitrite (NO2-) level in parts per million (ppm) which are equivalent to milligrams per Liter (mg/L) from 0 ppm to 5.0 ppm, in either fresh or saltwater aquariums. Other nitrite test kits that measure “nitrite-nitrogen” (NO2-N) will give readings 3.3 times LESS than this test kit.
Directions for Testing Nitrite:
In new freshwater and saltwater aquariums the nitrite level will gradually climb to 10 ppm (mg/L) or more. As the biological filter becomes established (in 4 to 6 weeks), nitrite levels will drop to 0 ppm (mg/L). In an established aquarium, the nitrite level should always remain at 0 ppm (mg/L). The presence of nitrite indicates possible over-feeding, too many fish, or inadequate biological filtration.
The nitrite level is not an indication of the ammonia level; ammonia is another toxic waste material which must be tested separately.
Monitoring Nitrite Level:
Regular testing for nitrite is an essential part of routine aquarium maintenance. Aquarium water should be tested for nitrite once a week to make sure the nitrite does not reach undesirable level.
Reducing Nitrite in the Aquarium:
Freshwater
Use Aquarium Pharmaceuticals Nitra-Zorb™ to remove nitrite from freshwater aquariums. Nitra-Zorb is a rechargeable filtration material that removes nitrite from freshwater. Making partial water changes can also help reduce the nitrite level, especially if the initial nitrite level is very high. Use Aquarium Pharmaceuticals STRESS ZYME® to help speed the development of the biological filter. Adding Aquarium Pharmaceuticals Aquarium Salt will reduce nitrite toxicity to fish while the biological filter is removing the nitrite.
Saltwater
Partial water changes will lower nitrite in a saltwater aquarium. Use Aquarium Pharmaceuticals STRESS ZYME to help speed up the development of the biological filter.
Caution:
Give large amounts of water or milk of magnesia. Wash thoroughly after handling. Keep out of the reach of children.
KH & GH Test Instructions:
What is Carbonate Hardness (KH)?
Carbonate hardness (also known as alkalinity) is the measure of carbonate (CO32-) and bicarbonate (HCO3-) ion concentrations dissolved in water. These minerals are present in municipal, well, and bottled spring water. The level of carbonate hardness in tap and bottled water depends on the source of the water and the treatment processes it has undergone. Carbonate hardness helps stabilize pH in the aquarium. An aquarium with a low KH level (50 ppm or less) will tend to be acidic. Aquariums with very low KH are subject to rapid pH shifts, if not monitored carefully. Water with a high KH level (= 200 ppm) usually has a high pH. The Aquarium Pharmaceuticals KH (Carbonate Hardness) Test measures KH in German degrees (°dKH). To convert °dKH to parts per million (ppm), multiply °dKH x 17.9.
Directions for Testing Carbonate Hardness (KH):
General hardness is the measure of calcium (Ca2+) and magnesium (Mg2+) ion concentrations dissolved in water. These minerals are present in municipal, well, and bottled spring water. The level of general hardness in tap and bottled water depends on the source of the water and the treatment processes it has undergone. Hard water (= 200 ppm) is high in calcium and magnesium, while soft water (50 to 100 ppm) is low in these minerals. The Aquarium Pharmaceuticals GH (General Hardness) Test measures GH in German degrees (°dGH). To convert °dGH to parts per million (ppm), multiply °dGH x 17.9.
Directions for Testing General Hardness (GH):
GH & KH Range - Aquarium Life:
General Hardness can be lowered with Aquarium Pharmaceuticals Water Softener Pillow. The ion exchange resin in the Water Softener Pillow lowers GH by removing calcium and magnesium ions. The Water Softener Pillow will not lower KH. Partial water changes with deionized water will gradually reduce GH to the desired level.
Increasing General Hardness:
African cichlids and brackish water fish require hard water with a pH of 8.2. Commercially available African cichlid or marine salts will increase GH and KH levels.
Lowering Carbonate Hardness:
Lowering KH is best accomplished by diluting the aquarium water with deionized water. Deionized water contains no KH or GH. Partial water changes will gradually reduce KH to the desirable level.
Increasing Carbonate Hardness:
KH can be increased with Aquarium Pharmaceuticals PROPER pH™ buffers. PROPER pH 6.5, 7.0 and 7.5 are non-carbonate buffers that automatically adjust pH and increase KH. PROPER pH will raise or lower pH, stabilizing it at the pre-set pH level. PROPER pH 8.2 is a carbonate buffer suitable for marine and African cichlid aquariums.
Harmful:
Freshwater pH Test Instructions:
Why Test pH?
pH is the measure of acidity of water. A pH reading of 7.0 is neutral. A pH higher than 7.0 is alkaline, and a pH lower than 7.0 is acidic. Maintaining the aquarium at the proper pH ensures optimal water quality.
Testing Tips:
This test kit measures pH from 6.0 to 7.6. Certain freshwater fish thrive at a pH above 7.5. Live-bearers, goldfish and African cichlids prefer a pH of 7.5. When keeping fish in this pH range, use Aquarium Pharmaceuticals High Range pH Test Kit.
Directions for Testing pH:
- Read thoroughly before testing. Do not allow Test Solutions to get into aquarium.
- To remove childproof safety cap: With one hand, push red tab left with thumb while unscrewing cap with free hand.
- Fill a clean test tube with 5 ml of water to be tested (to the line on the tube).
- Add three drops of Indicator Solution, holding dropper bottle upside down in a completely vertical position to assure uniformity of drops.
- Cap the test tube and invert tube several times to mix solution. Do not hold finger over open end of tube, as this may affect the test results.
- Determine the pH reading by matching the color of the solution against those on the pH Color Chart. The tube should be viewed against the white area beside the color chart. Color comparisons are best made in a well-lit area. The closest match indicates the pH of the water sample. Rinse the test tube with clean water after each use.
A pH of 7.0 is ideal when keeping a community aquarium containing a variety of tropical fish. Goldfish should be kept in their own aquarium and prefer a pH of 7.5. Many Amazonian fish, like angelfish and neon tetras, prefer a pH of 6.5 to 6.8. Mollies and swordtails thrive at pH 7.2 to 7.5. To raise or lower the pH of a freshwater aquarium, use Aquarium Pharmaceuticals pH UP or pH Down, following the directions on the container. Aquarium Pharmaceuticals Proper pH 6.5, 7.0, and 7.5 powders automatically adjust pH to the preset level.
Frequency of Testing:
The pH should be tested weekly, since natural materials in the aquarium (such as fish waste and decaying food) can cause pH changes. The minimum pH reading for this kit is 6.0 and the maximum is 7.6. Under extreme water conditions, readings below the minimum will read 6.0 and above the maximum will read 7.6. pH adjustments outside the range of this kit will not show any changes until the pH of the aquarium water is within the range of this kit.
Danger:
Corrosive C irritant Xi
pH Up:
- Contains sodium hydroxide
- Causes burns
- Keep locked up and out of the reach of children
- In case of contact with eyes, rinse immediately with plenty of water (at least 15 minutes) and seek medical advice
- After contact with skin, wash immediately with plenty of water. Remove contaminated clothing
- Wear suitable gloves and eye/face protection
- In case of accident or if you feel unwell, seek medical advice immediately (show label where possible)
- Irritating to eyes and skin
- Keep out of the reach of children
- In case of contact with eyes, rinse immediately with plenty of water (for 15 minutes) and seek medical advice
- After contact with skin, wash immediately with plenty of water. Remove contaminated clothing
- Never add water to this product.
Why Test pH?
pH is the measure of acidity of water. A pH reading of 7.0 is neutral. A pH higher than 7.0 is alkaline, and a pH lower than 7.0 is acidic. Certain freshwater fish thrive at a pH above 7.0. Live-bearers and goldfish require a pH of 7.5. African cichlids, marine fish and invertebrates require a pH between 8.2 and 8.4. Maintaining the aquarium at the proper pH ensures optimal water quality.
Testing Tips:
This test kit measures pH from 7.2 to 8.8 in either fresh or saltwater aquariums. This kit contains two High Range pH Test Color Charts — one for freshwater aquariums, and one for saltwater aquariums — so be sure to use the correct chart for your type of aquarium when interpreting test results. The Freshwater pH Test Color Chart is the appropriate chart to use for testing freshwater aquariums to which aquarium salt and African cichlid salt have been added. Artificial salt water should have a pH of 8.2. If not, adjustment with Aquarium Pharmaceuticals PROPER pH™ 8.2 is recommended. pH adjustment may be required in newly made salt water.
Directions for Testing pH:
- Read thoroughly before testing. Do not allow Test Solutions to get into aquarium.
- To remove childproof safety cap: With one hand, push red tab left with thumb while unscrewing cap with free hand.
- Fill a clean test tube with 5 ml of water to be tested (to the line on the tube).
- Add five drops of Indicator Solution, holding dropper bottle upside down in a completely vertical position to assure uniformity of drops.
- Cap the test tube and invert tube several times to mix solution. Do not hold finger over open end of tube, as this may affect the test results.
- Determine the pH reading by matching the color of the solution against those on the High Range pH Color Chart. The tube should be viewed against the white area beside the color chart. Color comparisons are best made in a well-lit area. The closest match indicates the pH of the water sample. Rinse the test tube with clean water after each use.
Saltwater
A pH level of 8.2 is ideal for saltwater fish, invertebrates and African cichlids. To automatically set the pH at 8.2. use Aquarium Pharmaceuticals PROPER pH 8.2 for saltwater aquariums. Proper pH 8.2 is a carbonate buffer which automatically adjusts and holds the pH at 8.2.
Freshwater
A pH of 7.5 is ideal for most live-bearing fish, such as mollies and swordtails. Goldfish will also thrive at a pH of 7.5. To raise or lower the pH of a freshwater aquarium, use Aquarium Pharmaceuticals pH UP™ or pH Down™, following the directions on the container. Proper pH 7.5 may be used to automatically adjust and hold pH at 7.5. Proper pH 8.2 may be used in African cichlid aquariums.
Frequency of Testing:
The pH should be tested weekly, since natural materials in the aquarium (such as fish waste and decaying food) can cause pH changes. The minimum pH reading for this kit is 7.2 and the maximum is 8.8. Under extreme water conditions, readings below the minimum will read 7.2 and above the maximum will read 8.8. pH adjustments outside the range of this kit will not show any changes until the pH of the aquarium water is within the range of this kit.
Caution:
- Keep out of reach of children.
- Eye contact: gently flush with water for at least 15 minutes. Remove contact lens, if present, after the first 5 minutes, then continue rinsing.
- Skin contact: wash thoroughly with soap and water.
- If swallowed, contact a physician or Poison Control Center immediately.
Why test for Ammonia?
Tropical fish continually release ammonia (NH3) directly into the aquarium through their gills, urine, and solid waste. Uneaten food and other decaying organic matter also add ammonia to the water. A natural mechanism exists that controls ammonia in the aquarium – the biological filter. It is made up of nitrifying bacteria, which live in the gravel bed. However, as with any natural process, imbalances can occur. Testing for the presence of toxic ammonia is essential, so that once detected, steps can be taken to remove it. Otherwise, ammonia in the aquarium will damage gill membranes, and prevent fish from carrying on normal respiration. High levels of ammonia quickly lead to fish death. Even trace amounts stress fish, suppressing their immune system and thereby increasing the likelihood of disease outbreaks and subsequent fish loss.
Testing Tips:
This salicylate based ammonia test kit reads the total ammonia level in parts per million (ppm) which are equivalent to milligrams per Liter (mg/L) from 0 ppm to 8.0 ppm (mg/L), in either fresh or saltwater aquariums. Thus, there are two Ammonia Test Color Charts — one for freshwater aquariums, and one for saltwater aquariums — so be sure to use the correct chart for your type of aquarium when interpreting test results. The Freshwater Ammonia Test Color Chart is the appropriate chart to use for testing freshwater aquariums to which salt has been added.
Directions for Testing Ammonia Levels:
- Read thoroughly before testing. Do not allow Test Solutions to get into aquarium.
- To remove childproof safety cap: With one hand, push red tab left with thumb while unscrewing cap with free hand.
- Fill a clean test tube with 5 ml of water to be tested (to the line on the tube).
- Add 8 drops from Ammonia Test Solution Bottle #1, holding the dropper bottle upside down in a completely vertical position to assure uniformity of drops added to the water sample.
- Add 8 drops from Ammonia Test Solution Bottle #2, holding the dropper bottle upside down in a completely vertical position to assure uniformity of drops added to the water sample.
- Cap the test tube and shake vigorously for 5 seconds. Do not hold finger over the open end of the tube, as this may affect the test results.
- Wait 5 minutes for the color to develop.
- Read the test results by matching the test solution against the Ammonia Test Color Chart. The tube should be viewed against the white area beside the color chart. Color comparisons are best made in a well-lit area. The closest match indicates the ppm (mg/L) of ammonia in the water sample. Rinse the test tube with clean water after each use.
In a new freshwater or saltwater aquarium, the ammonia level may surge to 6 ppm (mg/L) or more, and then fall rapidly as the biological filter becomes established. The ammonia will be converted to nitrite (also toxic), then to nitrate. This process may take several weeks. Use Aquarium Pharmaceuticals STRESS ZYME® to speed up the development of the biological filter. In an established aquarium, the ammonia level should always remain at 0 ppm (mg/L). The presence of ammonia indicates possible over-feeding, too many fish, or inadequate biological filtration.
The ammonia level is not an indication of the nitrite level; nitrite is another toxic waste material which must be tested separately.
Monitoring Ammonia Levels:
Regular testing is necessary to make sure the ammonia level is safe. Aquarium water should be tested for ammonia every other day when the aquarium is first set up, and once a week after the biological filter has been established (in about 4 to 6 weeks).
Detoxifying Ammonia Using AMMO-LOCK® in Freshwater and Saltwater Aquariums:
To detoxify ammonia, use Aquarium Pharmaceuticals AMMO-LOCK to instantly lock up ammonia. AMMO-LOCK does not remove ammonia, it simply converts toxic ammonia to a non-toxic form. Ammonia test kits will still test positive for ammonia, even though it is non-toxic. The biological filter will then consume the non-toxic ammonia, converting it to nitrite and then to nitrate.
Filtering Method to Remove Ammonia in Freshwater Aquariums:
Filter aquarium water with Aquarium Pharmaceuticals AMMO-CARB® or AMMO-CHIPS® to remove ammonia and improve water quality.
Water Changes:
Changing 25% of the aquarium water will reduce the ammonia level. In an emergency, a daily water change may be required over several days. Be sure to use a water conditioner like Stress Coat® or AMMO-LOCK, when adding tap water back into the aquarium.
Danger:
- Harmful & Corrosive C
- Bottle #2 contains sodium hydroxide and sodium hypochlorite
- Causes severe burns
- Contact with acids liberates toxic gas
- Toxic by inhalation, in contact with skin and if swallowed
- Danger of cumulative effects
- Keep locked up and out of the reach of children
- Keep away from food, drink and animal feeding stuffs
- In case of contact with eyes, rinse immediately with plenty of water (at least 15 minutes) and seek medical advice immediately. If contact lenses are present, remove after 5 minutes and continue rinsing
- After contact with skin, wash immediately with plenty of water. Remove contaminated clothing
- Wear suitable gloves and eye/face protection
- In case of accident or if you feel unwell, seek medical advice immediately (show label where possible)
- Do not mix with acidic materials
Why Test For Nitrite?
Nitrite (NO2-) is produced in the aquarium by the biological filter. Beneficial bacteria in the biological filter convert toxic ammonia into nitrite (also toxic). The biological filter then converts nitrite into nitrate (NO3-). Testing for the presence of toxic nitrite is essential, so that once detected, steps can be taken to remove it. Otherwise, nitrite in the aquarium will prevent fish from carrying on normal respiration. High levels of nitrite quickly lead to fish death. Even trace amounts of nitrite stress fish, suppressing their immune system and, thereby, increase the likelihood of disease and subsequent fish loss.
Testing Tips:
This test kit reads total nitrite (NO2-) level in parts per million (ppm) which are equivalent to milligrams per Liter (mg/L) from 0 ppm to 5.0 ppm, in either fresh or saltwater aquariums. Other nitrite test kits that measure “nitrite-nitrogen” (NO2-N) will give readings 3.3 times LESS than this test kit.
Directions for Testing Nitrite:
- Read thoroughly before testing. Do not allow test solutions to get into aquarium.
- To remove childproof safety cap: With one hand, push red tab left with thumb while unscrewing cap with free hand.
- Fill a clean test tube with 5 ml of water to be tested (to the line on the tube).
- Add 5 drops of Nitrite Test Solution, holding dropper bottle upside down in a completely vertical position to assure uniformity of drops added to the water sample.
- Cap the test tube and shake the tube for 5 seconds. Do not hold finger over the open end of the tube, as this may affect test results.
- Wait five minutes for the color to develop.
- Read the test results by matching the color of the solution against those on the Nitrite Test Color Chart. The tube should be viewed against the white area beside the color chart. Color comparisons are best made in a well-lit area. The closest match indicates the ppm (mg/L) of nitrite in the water sample. Rinse the test tube with clean water after each use.
In new freshwater and saltwater aquariums the nitrite level will gradually climb to 10 ppm (mg/L) or more. As the biological filter becomes established (in 4 to 6 weeks), nitrite levels will drop to 0 ppm (mg/L). In an established aquarium, the nitrite level should always remain at 0 ppm (mg/L). The presence of nitrite indicates possible over-feeding, too many fish, or inadequate biological filtration.
The nitrite level is not an indication of the ammonia level; ammonia is another toxic waste material which must be tested separately.
Monitoring Nitrite Level:
Regular testing for nitrite is an essential part of routine aquarium maintenance. Aquarium water should be tested for nitrite once a week to make sure the nitrite does not reach undesirable level.
Reducing Nitrite in the Aquarium:
Freshwater
Use Aquarium Pharmaceuticals Nitra-Zorb™ to remove nitrite from freshwater aquariums. Nitra-Zorb is a rechargeable filtration material that removes nitrite from freshwater. Making partial water changes can also help reduce the nitrite level, especially if the initial nitrite level is very high. Use Aquarium Pharmaceuticals STRESS ZYME® to help speed the development of the biological filter. Adding Aquarium Pharmaceuticals Aquarium Salt will reduce nitrite toxicity to fish while the biological filter is removing the nitrite.
Saltwater
Partial water changes will lower nitrite in a saltwater aquarium. Use Aquarium Pharmaceuticals STRESS ZYME to help speed up the development of the biological filter.
Caution:
- Corrosive & Harmful
- Causes burns. Harmful if swallowed.
- Contains hydrochloric acid. Avoid contact with skin and eyes. If on skin, flush with water for 15 minutes. If in eyes, hold lids open and flush with water for 15 minutes. Remove contact lens, if present, after the first 5 minutes, then continue rinsing. If swallowed, do not induce vomiting. Call a physician immediately.
Give large amounts of water or milk of magnesia. Wash thoroughly after handling. Keep out of the reach of children.
KH & GH Test Instructions:
What is Carbonate Hardness (KH)?
Carbonate hardness (also known as alkalinity) is the measure of carbonate (CO32-) and bicarbonate (HCO3-) ion concentrations dissolved in water. These minerals are present in municipal, well, and bottled spring water. The level of carbonate hardness in tap and bottled water depends on the source of the water and the treatment processes it has undergone. Carbonate hardness helps stabilize pH in the aquarium. An aquarium with a low KH level (50 ppm or less) will tend to be acidic. Aquariums with very low KH are subject to rapid pH shifts, if not monitored carefully. Water with a high KH level (= 200 ppm) usually has a high pH. The Aquarium Pharmaceuticals KH (Carbonate Hardness) Test measures KH in German degrees (°dKH). To convert °dKH to parts per million (ppm), multiply °dKH x 17.9.
Directions for Testing Carbonate Hardness (KH):
- Read thoroughly before testing. Do not allow Test Solutions to get into aquarium.
- To remove childproof safety cap: With one hand, push red tab left with thumb while unscrewing cap with free hand.
- Rinse a clean test tube with water to be tested.
- Fill the test tube with 5 ml of aquarium water (to the line on the test tube).
- Add Carbonate Hardness Test Solution, one drop at a time, holding dropper bottle upside down in a completely vertical position to assure uniformity of drops. After first drop is added, solution will turn blue. If the water sample contains only 1°dKH, the solution will turn from clear to its yellow endpoint after the first drop is added.
- Cap the test tube and invert several times after each drop. Keep count of the drops being added. Do not hold finger over open end of the tube, as this may affect the test results.
- The test is completed when the water in the test tube, after having been shaken, turns from blue to yellow. If you have difficulty discerning the color after the first drop of test solution is added, remove the cap from the test tube and while holding it over a white background, look down through the tube.
- The Carbonate Hardness value is determined by the number of drops of the reagent that must be added to turn the water in the test tube bright yellow. Each drop is equal to 1 °dKH or 17.9 ppm KH, (see the chart).
General hardness is the measure of calcium (Ca2+) and magnesium (Mg2+) ion concentrations dissolved in water. These minerals are present in municipal, well, and bottled spring water. The level of general hardness in tap and bottled water depends on the source of the water and the treatment processes it has undergone. Hard water (= 200 ppm) is high in calcium and magnesium, while soft water (50 to 100 ppm) is low in these minerals. The Aquarium Pharmaceuticals GH (General Hardness) Test measures GH in German degrees (°dGH). To convert °dGH to parts per million (ppm), multiply °dGH x 17.9.
Directions for Testing General Hardness (GH):
- Read thoroughly before testing. Do not allow Test Solutions to get into aquarium.
- To remove childproof safety cap: With one hand, push red tab left with thumb while unscrewing cap with free hand.
- Rinse a clean test tube with water to be tested.
- Fill the test tube with 5 ml of aquarium water (to the line on the test tube).
- Add General Hardness Test Solution, one drop at a time, holding dropper bottle upside down in a completely vertical position to assure uniformity of drops. After first drop is added, solution will turn orange. If the water sample contains only 1°dGH, the solution will turn from clear to its green endpoint after the first drop is added.
- Cap the test tube and invert several times after each drop. Keep count of the drops being added. Do not hold finger over open end ofthe tube, as this may affect the test results.
- The test is completed when the water in the test tube, after having been shaken, turns from orange to green. If you have difficulty discerning the color after the first drop of test solution is added, remove the cap from the test tube and while holding it over a white background, look down through the tube.
- The General Hardness value is determined by the number of drops of the reagent that must be added to turn the water in the test tube green. Each drop is equal to 1 °dGH or 17.9 ppm GH. GH and KH in the Aquarium
GH & KH Range - Aquarium Life:
- 0°-3° (0-50 ppm) discus, arowanas, elephantnose, neons, cardinals, live plants
- 3°-6° (50-100 ppm) Most tropical fish including angelfish, cichlids, tetras, botia, live plants
- 6°-11° (100-200 ppm) Most tropical fish including swordtails, guppies, mollies, goldfish
- 11°-22° (200-400 ppm) Rift lake cichlids, goldfish, brackish water fish
General Hardness can be lowered with Aquarium Pharmaceuticals Water Softener Pillow. The ion exchange resin in the Water Softener Pillow lowers GH by removing calcium and magnesium ions. The Water Softener Pillow will not lower KH. Partial water changes with deionized water will gradually reduce GH to the desired level.
Increasing General Hardness:
African cichlids and brackish water fish require hard water with a pH of 8.2. Commercially available African cichlid or marine salts will increase GH and KH levels.
Lowering Carbonate Hardness:
Lowering KH is best accomplished by diluting the aquarium water with deionized water. Deionized water contains no KH or GH. Partial water changes will gradually reduce KH to the desirable level.
Increasing Carbonate Hardness:
KH can be increased with Aquarium Pharmaceuticals PROPER pH™ buffers. PROPER pH 6.5, 7.0 and 7.5 are non-carbonate buffers that automatically adjust pH and increase KH. PROPER pH will raise or lower pH, stabilizing it at the pre-set pH level. PROPER pH 8.2 is a carbonate buffer suitable for marine and African cichlid aquariums.
Harmful:
- KH Test causes burns. In case of contact with eyes or skin, flush with water for 15 minutes and seek medical attention immediately.
- GH Test contains Triethanolamine.
- Harmful by inhalation.
- Irritating to eyes, respiratory system and skin. If in contact, flush with water for 15 minutes and seek medical attention immediately.
- Keep out of the reach of children